Countdown to the Heist…2 days…

It’s almost here!  I hope you are planning on going!  The blog Crux Crush scored an interview with the head route setters for The Heist, which is very interesting, check it out here.  Don’t forget that even though this event is only open to the ladies for competing, guys are encouraged to come support us, cheer like crazy and watch some serious sendage.

As for me, I’m super excited to go and be a part of this event.  I’ve been dealing with some minor, nagging injuries this month and I’m hoping they don’t hold me back too much.  I’ve also been talking up the event to some of the ladies at my “local” gyms.  I’d love to see them make the trip and give it a go.  Upstate NY needs some more reps out there!

Check back in after the event for results, pics, and thoughts on the comp.

Posted in Comps, Pro Climbing, Setting, Women & Climbing | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

NEWS: Indoor Climbing in Syracuse, NY

4/7/2017 – This blog post was originally written in 2013 and I have been updating it periodically since that time.  If I had realized just how many updates there would be, I would have included an actual date on each update, but I will do that from now on!  Please read post in its entirety to make sure you get the right info!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Rumors have been flying and I have been fielding a lot of questions recently regarding the status/existence of indoor rock climbing facilities in the Syracuse, NY area.  Here are some answers:

The Wall opened 2 years ago at 77 West 1st St, Oswego, NY.  They are a bouldering only facility with no top-outs.  The wall is constantly changing with many movable volumes and new features being added.  A large overhanging expansion to the wall was added this past spring.  UPDATE:  This gym closed its doors forever on Friday, November 15, 2013.  See post regarding this closure here.

A full-service rock climbing gym for Syracuse has been in the works for a few years now.  The latest report is that the facility planned for 3015 Erie Blvd East, Syracuse, NY will be affiliated with Evolution Rock & Fitness of Concord, NH.  There are still approvals needed and other steps before construction on this facility can begin.  News article here.   UPDATE: This facility will not be built at the planned location of 3015 Erie Blvd East.  Other sites are currently under consideration. LATEST UPDATE: A new location has been found at 2312 Erie Blvd East.  The current building would need to be modified (raising the roof) to accommodate climbing and the timeline includes a late fall 2014 opening. News article here. YET ANOTHER UPDATE: The 2312 Erie Blvd East location is still being considered, as well as another undisclosed location that has the requisite roof height for the planned climbing. This has pushed the opening to at least 2015. News article here.  4/7/17 UPDATE: Central Rock Gym is slated to open their 8th location, 1st in New York, in Franklin Square in Syracuse in Fall 2017.  Newspaper article here, CRG website here, CRG Syracuse page here, and CRG Syracse FB page here.

A climbing wall was intended to be one of the features in the new Pacific Health Club located at 604 Old Liverpool Rd, Liverpool, NY.  This fitness center just opened and has, not just a wall, but an entire climbing center called The Ledge.  They currently have 12 auto-belays and 4 dedicated bouldering areas.  Top-rope, sport climbing, and/or top-out bouldering may be added in the future.  News article here. UPDATE: This gym has been open for over a year now and has established a climbing community.

There you have it, folks!  This is all the info I currently have on the subject.  There is still a long way to go to quench the thirst of climbers in CNY.

Posted in Training | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Countdown to the Heist…11 days…

There’s a week and a half left until The Heist.  As far as I know, this is the first event of its kind and it sounds amazing.  Everyone involved in the comp is putting a ton of work into it to make it a success.  But one big part of the event’s success is up to us, the climbers.  We need to participate!  This comp is going to be very high-quality and well-run with problems appropriate for every level.  This is an especially great opportunity for anyone who has been hesitant to try a comp.  There will also be clinics the following day, so you can make a weekend of it!  An interview that the ladies over at Crux Crush did with the developers of The Heist provides some great insight into the event, competition, and climbing.

If you still aren’t swayed and are offering up excuses, here’s some free advice:

Excuse #1 – I’ve never been to a comp before.
Allow me to be cliche for a moment and say, “Everyone has to start somewhere!”  But there’s a reason why cliches become cliches.  There’s some  truth in them.  You do need to start somewhere and this is a great place to start.  The comp was conceived, and is being designed, with collaboration and inclusiveness in mind.  The goal is to foster the female climbing community within the greater climbing community.  Doesn’t that sound like the way you’d like to start?

Excuse #2 – I won’t know anyone there.
Well, you could always bring someone else with you, but let’s assume that, for whatever reason, that isn’t possible.  Who cares?  It’s no big deal.  I have gone to a lot of comps by myself, at gyms I’d never been to before, and for a long time I didn’t know a soul at any of them.  But I quickly found that the climbing community is so friendly and welcoming that even the less-than-extroverted can strike up new friendships quite easily.  Since this is a big event with a wide draw, there will be a lot of people in the same boat.  And they will need people to hang out with, sign their scorecard, spot them, share beta, etc.

Excuse #3 – But I’m not a very good climber.
You are probably better than you would say aloud, but, even if you aren’t, it doesn’t matter.  That’s why there are categories.  If they only wanted elite level climbers, they wouldn’t have a Beginner category.  And guess what, only 1 woman is going to win (well, maybe 4 if you count the winner in each category).  That doesn’t mean the rest of us shouldn’t compete.  This is where we get to test ourselves, against the wall, against each other or maybe just against ourselves.  I know my nerves are often a far greater adversary than any climber I’m up against.

Excuse #4 – Well, if I’m not going to win, what’s the point?
Fun and learning!  It’s a whole gym full of brand-new problems.  They are bringing in route-setters from all over, so at least some, if not all, of the problems will be set by someone whose style you are unfamiliar with.  And for this comp the problems are not only being set by women, but they are setting every problem keeping in mind that it will be climbed by women.  There will be some beta-sharing, of course, but you will learn the most just watching and trying.  And others will learn by watching you climb.  Each climber brings a unique set of strengths, weaknesses, experience and style with them.  We all have something to learn and something to bestow, regardless of category.

Excuse #5 – But I don’t know if I feel like making the trip.
I can’t guarantee this, but I think this comp will be seen down the road as an important milestone along the path of climbing, competition climbing and for women in climbing.  Wouldn’t it be great to look back and say that you were part of it?

Okay, if you are still offering up excuses at this point, I give up.  I hope, instead, that you are convinced and already registering for the comp.  I hope to see you there!  Now it’s time to climb:)

Posted in Comps, Women & Climbing | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment