Cardio Chores

Most advice to climbers says that to get better at climbing they should just climb a lot.  And most climbers just want to climb…a lot.  But for many people a little cross training probably would help their climbing.  And some might even be willing to do it, if life didn’t keep getting in the way (and, you know, they couldn’t get to a gym or crag to climb).

So, when life gets in the way, make lemonade.  Or whatever.  Chores are a great way to get a cardio workout in and still check things off the to-do list.  To get to the most benefit from this, you just need to do a little (very little) planning.

1.)    Pick a chore that lends itself to physical activity.  (Speed bill paying is a bad idea.)

2.)    Decide how long you would like to devote to your chore/workout.

3.)    Break up this time into intervals, varying the duration and intensity.  Use repeats to fill the time.  Make sure you design the workout to be appropriate for your fitness level.

4.)    Remember to adhere to basic workout guidelines, even though you are doing a chore.  Warm-up, cool-down, hydrate, etc.

To help get an idea of this, here’s what I did the other day as an example:

1.)    My garden needed to be weeded, so I chose hoeing as my “cardio chore.”

2.)    I wanted to spend ~40 minutes on the actual activity, not including warm-up and cool-down time.

3.)    My intervals:

:15 Fast hoeing
:05 Rest
:30 Moderate hoeing
:05 Rest
:30 Hard hoeing
:05 Rest
1:00 Moderate hoeing
:45 Rest

I repeated this entire set 12 times through.  It adds up to 39 minutes.

4.)    I did about 10 minutes of warm-up and 5 minutes of cool down.  I also spent much of the rest intervals doing light active recovery (arm circles, marches, etc).  This helped balance out the lopsidedness of the activity (I can only hoe right-handed).

In order to do my workout, I needed a timer.  I used the Seconds Pro app on my phone.  (The website says iOS, but you can get it for Android, which is what I have.)  This app is amazing.  I learned about it from the gals at Crux Crush and it was exactly what I needed for almost all my training.  A clock or stopwatch would also work just fine.  You don’t need to be this regimented in your workout, if that doesn’t work for you.  You could put on some headphones and do moderate for one song and rest for one song.  You could also do it non-time based, such as one row of the garden fast and then one row moderate.  Do what works for you.  That’s the point.  An added bonus of this system is that it makes the chore go by way faster.

This may sound silly, but my garden needed to be weeded and I needed to get in a cardio workout.  This was 2-for-1.  My garden looks great and it left me more time to climb later in the day.  I’d love to hear how others have adapted this idea.  Please share!

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Summer Sweat Fest 5.5

So I did indeed make the drive up to Canada again for the last Thursday night installment of the Summer Sweat Fest series.  This comp was at True North in Toronto.  And once again, I had a great time.

The problems were diverse and also quite different from the 5 problems that I had worked on at the last SSF.  The style of setting for the Open division of this series reminds me more of the type of setting I see at large on-sight comps, rather than redpoint comps, which is cool, because I don’t get to see that as often.  The format also gives me a little time to work on the problems rather than speeding through them, which happens in 5on/5off or 4on/4off formats.

Being at least a little familiar with the format and scoring system definitely helped this time around.  So did arriving earlier.  I planned for even more border crossing time this trip which I ended up not needing.  That was nice.  However, I had not planned on rush hour traffic through Toronto.  Whoops.

I also had a chance to talk to some of the other ladies in Open and had some great conversations!  I’m learning so much about climbing and comps in Canada.  I hope it won’t be too long before I am able to make it up there again for another one!

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Summer Sweat Fest & Electronic Scoring

Last Thursday I decided to hop in the car, drive to Canada and check out Toronto’s Summer Sweat Fest bouldering series.  This year, the 5th in the event, there are 5 comps held on Thursdays throughout the summer and a series finale on October 19th, 2013.  Several different gyms in the Toronto area are participating in the series.  The one I drove up for was at Climber’s Rock in Burlington, ON, which is also where the series finale will be held.

Now a scenic drive and a bouldering comp are reason enough for me, but this time my main aim was to check out the live, real-time, electronic scoring system they were using for the open competitors.  I wanted to see how it worked and learn more about it.  Here are the basics:  When you get to the gym you pay your entry fee and receive a climber number.  When you are ready to climb, you go up the check-in desk (the person with laptop) and give them your number and the number of the climb you want to attempt.  They type it in and it is automatically sent to tablet/smartphone of the judge in charge of that problem.  That judge then calls the climbers names in order.  The judge records the result of the attempt (send, fall, technical, etc) and the program tracks the time the attempt occurred, how many attempts it took and anything else that has been programmed.  The running score of every competitor is shown live at the event, as well as posting to the web.  My husband was able to track all of my climbing from his computer back in New York.

This system has so many things going for it and overall I’m a fan.  There are a few kinks to iron out here and there, but most of those are related to execution, and not design, of the program.  I would LOVE to see this implemented at more comps.  While I don’t know all the technical details on how it works, I’m sure that the program could be modified to accommodate different scoring systems.  By adding more equipment and staff, it could be used at larger events for both open and citizens scoring.  Some of the biggest things on the plus side are the ability to see the scoring and know what is going on throughout the event (a rarity in climbing), not distracting the judges while they are watching climbs by turning in cards and getting the results quickly at the end of the event.  This last one would be especially nice at comps that have separate finals rounds.  Finals competitors would know that they have moved on quickly and be able to get ready in iso and finals would actually be able to start on time which would hopefully increase spectator attendance.  Climbers, if this is something that you would like start seeing at our comps in the Northeast, let’s make some noise and see if we can get it here!  Gym owners/managers, if you are interested in this for your comp(s), please contact me here or on Facebook.

As for the actual comp…it was a blast.  It was fun to try out a totally different format.  I was definitely not used to it and it required a very different strategy than what you use for traditional redpoint comps.  The problems were fun and incorporated lots of different moves and styles between them.  Everyone was super friendly and I got to watch some great climbing.  Who knows, maybe I’ll make the drive again next week!

 

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