Weekend Review: Dec 13 – 14

Posted on December 16, 2014 by Sue Brumm

The end of 2014 is almost here! I hope you got a chance to get out and compete one last time. Here are the results from this weekend.

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Dark Horse 6.2 – MetroRock, Newburyport, MA   Results
Photos by Gkwan Photo

Tower of Power – True North, Toronto, ON   Results

Saturday, December 13 & Sunday, December 14, 2014

Defi du Bloc – Horizon Roc, Montreal, QC
This comp was actually 2 comps in one, Stage 2 of the Quebec Cup and Stop 1 of the National Series.
Quebec Cup Results
National Series Results
Photos by Jean Marc Ransinangue

Sunday, December 14, 2014

Sixathlon – Boulderz, Etobicoke, ON   Winners

I was at Defi du Bloc this weekend, specifically the National Series comp. I had a great time this weekend getting to catch up with friends, watch some great climbing and even sight-see a little bit around Montreal, but as far as my climbing was concerned this was not a good weekend.
The biggest issue was that my left knee/calf injury has still not healed all the way, so I am still limited in my range of motion and strength in my left leg. This, of course, means that climbing my best was simply not going to happen. I also noticed that my compensation for the limits of my left leg in training was a pattern that continued in competition. I was often doing extremely “creative” beta, which I’m sure just looked crazy to the crowd. Sometimes this beta was necessary due to my injury and sometimes it was a bad habit that was unnecessary, because my leg has made some progress and I am not as limited as I was even a week ago. That is something to remember and work on in my coming training sessions.
Despite being held back by my injury, I managed to put together a send on the last problem of qualifiers, which was enough to squeak me into finals. While finals did not go much better, every problem required deep knee bends on the left side, I got no tops, and I bashed the heck out of my right knee (guess I needed a matched set:/), I was psyched that I got to climb. My biggest disappointment is that I thought the setting was truly excellent at this comp and I felt that my climbing did not do the problems justice.
I have a 4 week break from competition to train hard and enjoy family time for the holidays. I expect my knees will be fully healed by the end (really, really hope so) and I will be able to return to form in time for Bloc Buster at Climber’s Rock!

Posted in Comp Results, Coupe Quebec, Dark Horse, National Series, OCF | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Weekend Preview: Dec 13 – 14

Posted on December 12, 2014 by Sue Brumm

We’re finishing up 2014 with some major competitions. Dark Horse Round 2, last OCF local of the bouldering season, and the Quebec National Series event! Plus a fun birthday party:)

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Dark Horse 6.2 – MetroRock, Newburyport, MA
Cost: $50, $5 spectator fee for pro finals
Climbing: Junior & Youth Quals: 10:00am – 1:00pm, Citizens & Pro Quals: 1:15pm – 4:15pm, Junior & Youth Finals: 4:30pm, Pro Finals: 5:30pm
Categories: Junior, Youth, Rec, Int, Adv, Pro

Round 2 is here! Qualifiers will be redpoint format and finals will be onsight. $5 of every entry fee and all spectator fees go towards Urban Peaks. All competitors will receive one spectator pass. For a clarification on categories at Dark Horse comps, go here.

Tower of Power – True North, Toronto, ON
Cost: registration has closed
Climbing: ~9:00am – 7:00pm, check running order for specific times
Categories: Youth D, C, B, A, & Jr

The last OCF local of the season and this one is on-sight!

Saturday, December 13 & Sunday, December 14, 2014

Defi du Bloc – Horizon Roc, Montreal, QC
Cost: registration has closed
Climbing: Saturday: 8:35am – 11:35am for B Quals, C, D, & Adult, 1:00pm for A, Jr, & Open Quals, Sunday: 10:30am for B, A, Jr, Open Finals
Categories: Rec, Exp, Youth D, C, B, A, Jr, Open

This Coupe Quebec bouldering comp is also the National Series event for Quebec. There will be separate podiums for each event. There will be a scramble format round for Rec, Exp, Youth C and Youth D. Youth B will also compete in this scramble round for their qualifications. Youth A, Jr and Open will have on-sight qualifications. Youth B, A, Jr and Open will all have on-sight finals. As a National Series event, final results will have implications for participation in Canadian Bouldering Nationals, national ranking and national team selection, please check here for more details.

Sunday, December 14, 2014

Sixathalon – Boulderz, Etobicoke, ON
Cost: $12 Boulderz members, $26 non-members
“Climbing”: 2:00pm – 8:00pm
Categories: Jedi Master and Young Jedi

Man, do they know how to throw a party in Canada! This party/comp/event looks like so much fun. There’s going to be a six part competition and a big raffle. Bringing an unwrapped gift for their drive will score you a free raffle ticket and good karma points. Definitely check it out if you’re around!

Posted in Canadian Climbing, Comps, Coupe Quebec, Dark Horse, National Series, OCF | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Weekend Review: Dec 6 – 7

Posted on December 8, 2014 by Sue Brumm

Lots of comps this weekend, but the big excitement was ABS Regionals. Congrats to everyone who competed and those who are received an invite to compete at ABS Divisionals!

Saturday, December 6, 2014

MACCS Comp – Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, MD
Photos from Caleb Baechtold and Shaun McCarthy

Beta Bloc – WPI, Worcester, MA
Photos

Ram Jam – West Chester University, West Chester, PA
Photos

Boulder Bash – Maine Bound Adventure Center, Orono, ME

TdB Comp – Altitude Gym, Gatineau, ON   Quals   Finals
Photos by Paul Hart

ABS Regionals (501) Capital – Sportrock, Sterling,VA   Results
Detailed Results and explanation of scoring from USA Climbing
Photos
Photos by Kellie McCaffrey Meehan

ABS Regionals (502) New England West – Gravity Vault, Upper Saddle River, NJ   Results
Detailed results and explanation of scoring from USA Climbing

ABS Regionals (503) New England East – MetroRock, Newburyport, MA   Results
Photos by Jason Hayden

Sunday, December 7, 2014

One Tribe – York College, York, PA

I was at the TdB comp at Altitude Gym in Gatineau, QC this weekend. I had a good time and was both pleasantly surprised and completely frustrated with my climbing. If you regularly read my blog, than you are aware that I hurt my left knee at the last comp I went to, which was the TdB at Bloc Shop 2 weeks ago. It was hurt pretty bad, but two different medical evaluations concluded that there was no structural damage to the area. This, of course, was good news and meant that I just have to wait until it heals. No athlete is good at this!

I did rest it a bit, started some rehab and have gradually reintroducing it to climbing. I wasn’t even sure if I would be able to compete at Altitude, but I was already registered and TdBs are always a good time, so I thought I’d make the drive and see what I could do. I could climb, stand on my left leg and even occasionally push a little with it! Oh the other hand, I could not heel hook, toe in, high step, or bend much past 90 with it. This really limits you.

Some of the problems that I climbed at Altitude did not require my left leg to do anything that it can’t currently do, many climbs required creative beta to complete them without the move(s) I couldn’t do and others were completely off the table, I just couldn’t do or even try them given my limitations. So I was, like I said, pleasantly surprised at how well I climbed, how good a score I could put together and how well I placed given how little I could use my left leg, but that was tempered with how frustrating it was to not be able to use it! Just bend! Just pull!

Congrats to everyone who climbed on Saturday, especially the ladies in Open, I saw some serious crushing going on! And a special shout out to the setters, who set some amazing and fun problems, even when I was forced to climb with what was obviously the wrong beta!

Posted in Bouldering (former ABS), Comp Results, MACCS, Tour de Bloc | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment