Weekend Review: Jul & Aug

This summer has been a busy one for me and (some) results were slow in getting out, so I combined all the comps from July and August into one review post here.

Saturday, July 5, 2014

Grand Opening Comp – Bloc Shop, Montreal, QC  Results-Youth & Citizens

I could not read the pictures of the results for the Open category and I did not want to post incomplete/incorrect results, so I only included those for the youth/citizens comp. If anyone has full Open results I would love to add them. Please contact me, chalkdustclimbing@gmail.com. Thanks!

Thursday, July 24, 2014

SSF 6.2 Dog Days – Climber’s Rock, Burlington, ON   Results

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Sunburn – Philadelphia Rock Gym, Valley, PA   Results

Friday, August 1, 2014

One Year Boulder – BKB, Somerville, MA   Results

Thursday, August 7, 2014

SSF 6.3 Style Points – True North, Toronto, ON   Results

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Beat the Heat 9 – Sportrock, Alexandria, VA   Results

Monday – Tuesday, August 11 – 12, 2014

Gay Games 9 – Kendall Cliffs Climbing Gym, Penisula, OH   Results

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Summer Sweat Fest 6.4 The Heat is On – Boulderz, Etobicoke, ON   Results

Friday, August 29, 2014

Colgate Climbing Comp – Angert Family Climbing Wall, Colgate University, Hamilton, NY
Results – These are seriously incomplete. I’ll add it them if I get more results.

I had the good fortune of being able to make it to several of these comps. (That’s part of why my summer has been so busy.)
First up was the Grand Opening of Bloc Shop and I had a blast at this comp. The problems were very well-set and there were lots of volumes. (I’m such a sucker for volumes!) The brand-new-completely-un-worn-down-super-friction on the walls of this bouldering gym were a bit hard on me, my callouses are still recovering and I am sporting some new scars.
Luckily I had a couple weeks to let some new skin grow before I scooted over the border again, this time to the west, for the second Summer Sweat Fest, this one at Climber’s Rock. For the first time ever I topped all 5 problems at an SSF comp. It took quite a few attempts to dial in the dyno start on Problem #5, but my persistence paid off in the end!
At the last minute I found out about the birthday party comp for the new BKB gym in Somerville. So I bailed on concert plans, talked my caddy into driving to Boston, and we were off! This was my first visit to this location. It is a beautiful facility with impressive climbing walls, but a very different aesthetic than the original BKB in Brooklyn. I love them both! The comp and party were very well-attended, which was great for BKB overall, but not so great for everyone standing in line to get into the party or get a turn on the comp walls. My husband didn’t get in until just before the comp ended and missed all of my climbing:( I just managed to get 5 climbs on my scorecard in time and that scored me 3rd place in advanced (no open at this comp). Psyched!
Next up was the third installment of SSF. True North decided to mix things up and use a totally different format for their SSF comp, which they appropriately named Style Points. All the problems were divided into one of 5 categories based on style. Your scorecard had to have one send in each category, plus one more climb that could be from any of them. The categories were Endurance, Crimpy/Edgy, Dynamic/Powerful, Slab, and Open Hand (think slopers and pinches). I love the concept behind this format, because it drives me nuts to get to a comp and have all the problems be the same. It often seems that the thought behind comp setting is that easy problems all involve jugs and/or flat walls and hard problems involve crimps up an overhang for the ladies and powerful slopey moves up an overhang for the dudes. I loved having an intentional, well-thought out variety at every level. Plus, requiring one climb from each category kept people from only sticking to the style(s) within their comfort zone.
Next was the the final “regular-season” SSF before the Fall Finale. I was over the border again (seriously, I’m starting to think I need a commuter pass) to the new Boulderz gym. Awesome facility with lots of space, including room to grow. Unfortunately, this was not a good climbing night for me. Many times climbers, myself included, do not climb well due to being tired, an injury, soreness, or other transient physical limitations. This was not the case. My brain was my limiting factor at this comp. I just could not think or problem solve at my usual level. Thank goodness for the wonderful camaraderie of climbing. Some of my fellow competitors helped out with beta between attempts when they saw me struggling. [Lest you think that I am making excuses for a poor score, I provide the following evidence that I was just not having “a good brain day.” Earlier that day I had to meet my husband at his hotel (he was on a business trip) and pick him up before we drove together to the comp. He texted me the name and address of the hotel, I programmed my GPS and made good time, arriving before he was done with his meetings for the day. I parked at the hotel and waited in my car. He called to let me know he was returning to the hotel and give me the room number. I lock up the car, enter the hotel, go up to the room and knock. Nothing. I knock again. Still nothing. I knock really loud and try to not get annoyed. Still nothing. I head back to the elevator thinking that I can use the house phone to call him. No house phone. I go back to the lobby and try calling him from the lobby house phone. Busy signal. I go back to the car to get my phone, but I am currently having massive phone issues, it is off and dead, and I can’t call back. So I go to the front desk and tell them that I am supposed to be meeting my husband, but he isn’t answering his phone or door, can they please double check his room number for me? They are very nice and are checking for him, but can’t find his name anywhere. I’m getting very frustrated at this point. The lady at the front desk finally asks me, “Are you sure he is staying at this Hampton Inn?” I stared at her for about 3 full seconds before saying, rather sheepishly, “No, he’s staying at the Holiday Inn.” I remind you that I had parked in front of this hotel for over an hour, and even thought to myself on the elevator, “gee, this looks a lot like a Hampton, can’t believe the Holiday Inn can get away with that.” At no point did even occur to me that this was not the correct hotel. (In case you are wondering how the story ends, the Holiday Inn was next door and I found my husband, who was wondering exactly why it took me half an hour to get from the parking lot to the room.) I also missed my mouth  while taking a drink from my cup at dinner. No, not missed the clear straw or something, just didn’t get the cup actually to where my lips were. I think it is safe to say that Open level beta was beyond my capacities that evening.]
The Colgate University Climbing Comp is my last comp of summer/first comp of the season comp and I love it. It has that feel of tradition for me and I always have a great time. (Read my posts before and after last year’s comp.) This year was no exception. Super fun! I walked away with a first place, yay!, and got to see everyone again after their summer break. If you are local-ish, swing by and check out their spiffy new paint job and try out the comp problems.

Well, you are all caught up! Hope your summer was wonderful and you are looking forward to amazing fall. Keep up to date about upcoming comps and results by following “Chalk Dust” on WordPress and Facebook, if you don’t already. If you do, thanks!!

 

 

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